Northern Cap

A fairly distinctive near-modern period style, this cap was apparently quite popular around northern Europe (particularly Flemish-land) for a while, and was allegedly also worn by Amish grandmothers back in their day.

What you need:

– thread, needle

– semi-translucent, soft material

– ties optional

How to make the Pattern

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To begin with, you need only one measurement, which is around your head, nape to forehead. This should be the length of the brim piece, the width of which should be 6-8 inches (about 20cm). To make things easier, cut the brim piece out as a rectangle and then cut a smooth curve on one side, going in about ¼ of the depth of the material.

For the crown piece, you simply need a circle 10-12 inches in diameter (about 25-30cm). You can make it smaller if you have less hair.

Cut two of both pieces. If you’re using thicker material, you could probably get away with just one crown piece.

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How to sew the Covering

1 – Sew around the sides and front of the brim. Turn right-side-out, and sew the edge down.

2 – Place the brim on your head and pin it at the back. Sew it down where you’ve pinned it. A note – this brim is a little too large; the seam at the nape of the neck should not be this long. It should be less than an inch.

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3 – After pinning the quarter points (12, 3, 6, and 9 on a clock-face), sew a large running stitch around the circle crown piece. Pull on the strings to gather, pin to the brim, and sew. Or, if you’re like me and have nightmares about gathering anything, sew it in with the tiny little pleats.

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4 – If you were using sturdier material, I would suggest sewing the crown to only the top part of the brim, and then basting the bottom part down to create a hidden seam. With this material, it was just too fiddly.

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How to wear the Covering

You need to put your hair in a very high bun for this one, but once that’s done, the putting on of the covering is fairly easy. Fit the crown over the bun and pull the kapp on, tying it under the chin. Alternatively, you could fold the brim back and tie the ties at the nape of your neck, under the bun.

How to care for the Covering

It really depends on the material you use.

Where to buy the Covering

You can buy a pattern for the covering at Candle on the Hill or read another how-to at Sempstress.You’ll notice there’s a difference in the brim – the vintage Amish one at Candle on the Hill has a smaller brim which does not meet at the back, leaving quite a lot of hair exposed at the back of the head. For better coverage, I’ve gone with Sempstress’ style of brim, although I do believe the crown and brim pieces there are separate and the brim is buttoned at the back… So, overall, this version of mine is probably halfway in-between.

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